How to Grow Tomatoes - and Some Unique Varieties!

Tomatoes are one of the most beloved homegrown crops—and for good reason. They’re flavorful, versatile, and come in so many fun colors, shapes, and sizes. But growing them isn’t always as simple as tossing seeds in the ground and hoping for the best.

In this post, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to grow your own tomatoes—from choosing seeds to harvesting ripe, juicy fruit—plus why each step matters. Whether this is your first tomato season or your tenth, there's always something new to learn (and love) about growing tomatoes.

1. Gather Your Supplies

Starting with the right tools can make the whole process smoother and more successful. Here’s what you’ll need to grow tomatoes from seed:

Basic Supplies:

  • Tomato seeds – Choose varieties based on your space and taste preferences (we love heirlooms for flavor).

  • Seed-starting mix – Lightweight, sterile, and designed to support young seedlings. Avoid regular potting soil here—it's too dense.

  • Soil blocker (or seed trays, small containers) – We use soil blocking because there are no containers and the plamts are either transferred to a larger pot or are planted directly in the ground. But you can use a clean, shallow tray with drainage holes if you prefer.

  • Grow lights (or a bright windowsill) – Tomatoes are light-hungry even as seedlings.

  • Plant markers – You will forget what you planted where. Trust us.

  • Spray bottle or watering can – Gentle watering is key early on.

  • Fertilizer – A balanced organic fertilizer helps with strong starts.

  • Tomato cages, stakes, or trellises – You'll need these later, but it's helpful to have them ready!

Why it matters: Having the right tools from the start prevents common problems like damping off, weak seedlings, or transplant stress. It’s like setting up a nursery for your baby tomato plants.

2. Start Seeds Indoors (6–8 Weeks Before Last Frost)

Tomatoes need a long growing season—too long to start outdoors in most regions. Starting seeds indoors lets you get a head start.

How to Start Seeds:

  • Block your soil or Fill containers with moistened seed-starting mix.

  • Plant tomato seeds about 1/4 inch deep.

  • Keep them in a warm spot (70–80°F) until germination—heat mats can help.

  • Once they sprout, move them to a bright window or under grow lights for 14–16 hours/day.

  • Realistically, you will probably need grow lights unless you have a south facing window with continuous sunlight ALL day. We've tried natural light only and the germination rate is much lower, but it can be done! Also, use a heat mat to speed up germination—it really helps but you don't need it.

  • Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) and provide good airflow.

Why it matters: Young seedlings need warmth and light to develop into strong transplants. Skipping this step or rushing it can result in leggy, weak plants that won’t thrive outside.

3. Pot Up Seedlings (Optional but Recommended)

Once seedlings have their first set of true leaves (not just the baby ones), consider transplanting them into slightly larger pots. We’ve transplanted at many different times – tomatoes are incredibly resilient! Listen to your gut - if your seeds are acting odd or stop growing out of nowhere - up-pot them!

Potting Up Tips:

  • Use a lightweight potting mix with some added compost.

  • Bury part of the stem when transplanting—tomatoes grow roots along their stems.

  • Continue to keep them warm, well-lit, and watered evenly.

Why it matters: Potting up gives roots more room to grow, supports stronger stems, and helps prevent transplant shock later.

4. Harden Off Before Transplanting

Hardening off is the process of slowly introducing indoor seedlings to the outdoor environment. Think of it as "plant boot camp."

How to Harden Off:

  • Begin about 7–10 days before planting outside and gradually introduce the plants to sunlight and the outside elements.

  • Place seedlings outdoors in a shaded, protected spot for a few hours.

  • Gradually increase sun exposure and time outside each day.

  • Avoid windy, rainy, or very cold days.

Why it matters: Sudden exposure to full sun, wind, and temperature swings can shock seedlings. Hardening off helps them adapt gradually, resulting in healthier, more resilient plants.

5. Transplant into the Garden

Once ANY risk of frost (REALLY important!) has passed and your soil has warmed up (ideally 60°F+), it’s time to transplant!

Transplanting Tips:

  • Choose a sunny spot (6–8+ hours of direct sun daily).

  • Work compost or organic matter into the soil for added nutrients.

  • Dig a deep hole and bury at least 2/3 of the plant, including part of the stem (but remove all leaves on the stem to prevent disease).

  • Space plants 18–36 inches apart, depending on variety.

  • Water deeply.

Why it matters: Deep planting encourages a strong root system, which helps anchor the plant and improves water and nutrient uptake.

6. Provide Structural Support

Tomatoes need something to climb or lean on. Without support, they’ll sprawl on the ground, increasing the risk of disease and fruit rot.

Options for Support:

  • Tomato cages: Easy and sturdy—great for determinate varieties.

  • Stakes: Space-saving and great for indeterminate plants—just tie as they grow.

  • Trellises: Best for vertical gardening or raised beds.

  • Infrastructure: wooden posts and bailing wire work great. Keep an eye out for our tutorial!

Why it matters: Good support keeps plants healthy, fruit clean, and airflow high—preventing fungal issues like blight and making harvesting easier.

7. Understand Determinate vs. Indeterminate

Choosing the right type of tomato for your space makes a big difference in how you grow and maintain them.

Two Main Types:

  • Determinate (bush): Grow to a set height and fruit all at once. Perfect for small spaces, containers, and preserving.

  • Indeterminate (vining): Keep growing and producing all season. Ideal for fresh eating and continuous harvests.

Why it matters: Knowing the type helps you decide how to support, prune, and harvest. Indeterminate varieties often need more attention and space, but reward you with longer harvests.

8. Pruning (For Indeterminate Varieties)

While determinate tomatoes generally don’t need pruning, indeterminate types benefit from regular pruning to improve airflow and fruit quality.

Pruning Tips:

  • Remove suckers (the shoots between the main stem and leaf branches).

  • Trim yellowing or diseased lower leaves.

  • Avoid over-pruning—leave enough foliage to shade fruit and support photosynthesis.

Why it matters: Pruning directs energy to fruit production, reduces disease risk, and keeps plants tidy and manageable.

9. Watering + Fertilizing

Tomatoes like consistent moisture and regular feeding, especially during flowering and fruiting.

Watering Tips:

  • Water deeply 2–3 times per week—more often in extreme heat.

  • Water at the base to avoid wetting foliage.

  • Use mulch to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Fertilizing Tips:

  • Use a balanced fertilizer when planting.

  • Switch to a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer once fruiting begins.

  • Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with nitrogen—it can cause lush leaves but few fruits.

Why it matters: Inconsistent watering leads to blossom end rot and fruit cracking. The right nutrients support healthy plants and abundant harvests.

10. Watch for Pests + Diseases

Even the healthiest tomato plants can face pests and disease. Stay observant and act quickly.

Common Issues:

  • Aphids: Small green/black bugs—blast with water or use insecticidal soap.

  • Hornworms: Big, green caterpillars—hand-pick and remove.

  • Blight or mildew: Remove affected leaves and improve airflow.

Why it matters: Early detection and prevention are key. Healthy soil, good airflow, and organic practices help keep problems at bay.

11. Harvest Time!

The moment you’ve been waiting for! Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully colored, slightly soft, and fragrant.

Harvesting Tips:

  • Gently twist or snip fruits from the vine.

  • Don’t wait too long—overripe tomatoes can crack or attract pests.

  • Store at room temperature (not in the fridge!) for best flavor.

  • For long-term storage (~1 year), FREEZE them!

Why it matters: Picking at peak ripeness means better taste, more nutrition, and ongoing fruit production.

9 Varieties In Our Garden This Year

1. Green Heirloom

Don’t let the color fool you—this green tomato is ripe when it has a slight yellow blush and feels soft to the touch. A standout at farmers markets and in backyard gardens, it’s a favorite among tomato lovers who appreciate rich flavor and unique beauty.

Type: Heirloom

Growth Habit: Indeterminate

Fruit Size: Large (8–16 oz, sometimes larger)

Color: Bright green with hints of yellow or amber when ripe

Flavor: Sweet, slightly spicy, and intensely rich with a tangy finish—full-bodied and complex, often compared to tropical fruit

2. Hillbilly Flame

Hillbilly Flame is a showstopping heirloom with stunning marbled coloring and a rich, sweet flavor. This variety is as hardy as it is eye-catching, making it a favorite for slicers, salads, and garden-to-table bragging rights.

Type: Heirloom, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Tall, vining plant—requires staking or trellising for support

Fruit Size: 1 to 2 lbs

Color: Golden yellow with vibrant red and orange streaks throughout the skin and flesh

Flavor: Sweet, mild, and fruity with low acidity—ideal for fresh eating and summer sandwiches

3. San Marzano

A prized Italian heirloom famous for its role in rich sauces and traditional cooking, San Marzano tomatoes are known for their firm flesh, few seeds, and concentrated flavor. They’re a go-to for canning, roasting, and simmering into something magical.

Type: Heirloom, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Vining plant—requires staking or caging for support

Fruit Size: 3–4 inches long (about 4–6 oz)

Color: Deep red with a smooth, elongated, plum shape

Flavor: Sweet, dense, and slightly tangy—low in acidity with rich, tomato-forward flavor perfect for sauces

4. Purple Cherokee

This treasured heirloom has become a staple in backyard gardens for its deep color and unbeatable flavor. Cherokee Purple is beloved for its complex taste, meaty texture, and dramatic, dusky appearance.

Type: Heirloom, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Tall, vining plant—requires staking or caging for support

Fruit Size: 10–12 oz (can reach up to 1 lb)

Color: Dusky rose to deep reddish-purple with green shoulders and a rich, dark interior

Flavor: Bold, smoky-sweet, and rich—often described as earthy and almost wine-like

5. Super Sweet 100 Cherry Tomato

A garden favorite for a reason, Super Sweet 100s produce long, cascading clusters of cherry tomatoes that seem to never stop. Known for their intense sweetness and high yields, these little gems are perfect for snacking right off the vine.

Type: Hybrid, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Tall, vining plant that needs staking or trellising—can grow over 6 feet tall

Fruit Size: 1 inch (approx. 1 oz)

Color: Bright, glossy red

Flavor: Super sweet, juicy, and bursting with classic cherry tomato flavor—great fresh or roasted

6. Kellogg’s Breakfast Tomato

Kellogg’s Breakfast is a standout for its glowing orange color, rich flavor, and meaty texture. It's a favorite among slicers and sandwich lovers, thanks to its low seed count and juicy, sweet flesh.

Type: Heirloom, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Tall, vining plant that requires strong staking or caging

Fruit Size:1 to 2 lbs

Color: Vibrant golden-orange inside and out

Flavor: Exceptionally sweet, rich, and fruity with a smooth, tropical-like finish

7. Early Red Chief Tomato

The Early Red Chief is a reliable, early-maturing tomato that thrives in shorter growing seasons. Known for its productivity and classic tomato flavor, it's a great choice for canning, slicing, or tossing into fresh garden salads.

Type: Hybrid, Determinate

Growth Habit: Compact, bushy plant—no staking required, but support can help with heavy yields

Fruit Size: 5–7 oz

Color: Bright, uniform red both inside and out

Flavor: Classic, balanced tomato flavor—mildly sweet with a hint of tang

8. Hillbilly Tomato

A showstopper in any garden, the Hillbilly tomato is a sweet, low-acid heirloom variety with striking yellow-orange skin marbled with red. This tomato is as beautiful as it is flavorful—perfect for slicing, sharing, and savoring summer.

Type: Heirloom, Indeterminate

Growth Habit: Tall, vining plant that requires staking or caging for support

Fruit Size: 1 to 2 lbs (yes, it’s a big one!)

Color: Golden yellow with vibrant red streaks, often with a bi-colored interior

Flavor: Mild, sweet, and fruity with very low acidity—ideal for fresh eating

9. Heirloom Rainbow

Heirloom Rainbow tomatoes are a stunning mix of old-fashioned varieties, known for their vibrant, multicolored skins and rich, complex flavors. These tomatoes are as eye-catching as they are delicious, making them a favorite for slicing, salads, and showcasing on summer plates.

Type: Heirloom (typically beefsteak-style)

Growth Habit: Indeterminate – produces fruit continuously until frost

Fruit Size: Large (8–16 oz, depending on variety)

Color: A colorful blend—often red, yellow, orange, green, and pink, sometimes all in one tomato with marbled or striped patterns

Flavor: Sweet, fruity, and full-bodied with a low acid profile—perfect for fresh eating

Final Thoughts

Tomatoes take some effort, but they give back in abundance. Every seed you plant, every mistake you learn from, every ripe tomato you slice into—it’s all part of the magic. Gardening is about growth, yes, but not just for your plants. It’s about your growth too.

So start small. Stay curious. And know that with each season, you’ll get a little more confident, a little more intuitive, and a whole lot more connected—to your food, your soil, and yourself.

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